Marstal

Ships, planes, and smuggling

It starts and finishes where the ferry docks in the harbour - there is a bus stop and plenty of parking. There is also one of my favourite bars on Ærø, Ballast, right by the ferry terminal. Oh yes.

The route is a bit long but it is truly worth the effort. I think anyone who might just have one afternoon for a Marstal walk should experience the harbour, Eriks Hale, Gråsten Nor, and Kragnæs.

  • Marstal harbour is wonderful, with the old Shipyard (Eriksens Plads), the Mole and the Maritime Museum. Top tip - read “We the Drowned” before the walk so you understand how this tiny island became a shipping force to be reckoned with on the world stage.

  • Eriks Hale is one of my favourite places to walk - the famous beach houses enhance the first part and beyond that is a lovely natural wilderness with a memorable vista out to Langeland and back to the town, and it joins on to the Mole which protects the harbour.

  • Gråsten Nor was once an inlet which separated “little Ærø” (Marstal) from “West Ærø” (Ærøskøbing, Bregininge, Rise and Søby). Drained by Dutch know-how for agricultural land in the 19th century it is now a nature reserve and also home to Ærø’s International Airport.

  • Kragnæs, Kleven and Ommel Church - the inlet here is a special place, and the mooring places are evidence of where the sailing ships would overwinter sheltered from the weather. Smugglers were busy here once, but now it is home to thousands of birds.

Places to stay - there are a number of pleasant small hotels, and the camp site is excellent.

Refreshment - my favourite place for a beer or rum is “Ballast”, right where the ferry docks, or if the party keeps going then Skipperkroen up in town is where locals in party mode head. “Fru Berg” is the best location, and the new “Marstang” (more cafe than restaurant) is getting good reviews. “Udsigten” is a great location too.